Kimono, the traditional garment of Japan, have enchanted people worldwide with their elegance, intricate designs, and rich history, but the different styles often confuse people when they first start out on their kimono journeys. What are the different styles of kimono, and when is it appropriate to wear them?
While the kimono is often associated with timeless beauty, it's also a canvas for showcasing various styles that have evolved over centuries, and - in the same way that you wouldn't wear a ballgown to a corporate party - they have some rules of formality. In this exploration, we delve into the diverse styles of female kimono, unraveling their origins, distinctive features, and cultural significance.
小紋 | Komon:
Origin: Heian period (794-1185) | Formality: Casual |
Obi: Hanhaba/Nagoya/Fukuro | Musubi: Varied
Komon, translating to "fine pattern," this kimono style is characterized by the small, repeating patterns covering its entirety. Komon gained popularity during the Edo period (1603-1868). Its understated elegance makes it a fun and versatile option, although the lack of structure of the patterns, which can face any direction, mark this as a casual kimono. Regardless of the size or density of the pattern, a kimono that has a pattern without a particular direction is generically called 'komon' nowadays. They can be a great choice for casual events, slightly formal events, or as a first kimono for those who are unaccustomed to the garment. That said, some komon can be more formal than others.
Edo-komon are a style of komon that were specifically produced in Edo (present day Tokyo) around the Muromachi period (1336-1573). These semi-formal textiles look almost like solid colors from far away, but when viewed up close, they reveal countless tiny dots and shapes. A defining characteristic of these is the repetition of a single pattern, and – though the orientation might change – the form and shape comprise only that single pattern. This kimono style boasts a lengthy lineage, tracing its origins back to the late Heian period (794-1185), where it first depicted a tiny cherry blossom pattern known as 'kozakura'.
As the Edo period unfolded, Edo-komon gained prominence as the preferred fabric for the formal attire of samurai, known as Kamishimo, meaning 'daimyo costume'. Families of feudal lords had started to compete by using the luxury of patterns as a status symbol, until the increasingly ostentatious displays became regulated by the Edo bakufu (Japanese feudal government headed by a shogun). Each samurai family adopted their own unique, but subtle, family kamishimo design, which served as a symbolic representation of their lineage. The most formal Edo-komon patterns are the goku-same (shark), kaku-toushi (vertically & horizontally patterned squares), and gyougi-doushi (cross patterned tiny dots), which are considered equal in status to an Iromuji. Subsequently, during the late Edo period, the Edo-komon became increasingly accessible and began to be integrated into the lives of everyday people, some of whom used ordinary objects and tools from their professions for their patterns. This kimono style can have a greater formality status with the inclusion of kamon (family crests)
色無地 | Iromuji:
Origin: Muromachi period (1336-1573) | Formality: Semi-Formal |
Obi: Hanhaba/Nagoya/Fukuro | Musubi: Varied
Iromuji, meaning "single solid colour," is a kimono adorned with any single colour (besides black) without pattern. Its simplicity exudes sophistication, allowing accessories and obi (sash) to take center stage and either dress the kimono up or down. Bright colours can be worn to auspicious events, and darker more subdues kimono, like grey or quiet blues, can be worn in times of solemnity.
Without any kamon (family crests) this kimono can be worn casually. By adding a kamon it can gain the same formality of its semi-formal sister, the Hōmongi, and with three kamon, it is considered a higher formality than even the Hōmongi. Iromiji are ideal for tea ceremonies, as they will not distract from the ceremony itself.
Mofuku:
While some may be tempted to wear a black iromuji, this is actually its own distinct style of kimono, known as Mofuku kimono. This style is reserved only for funeral wear for the immediate family of the deceased while they are in mourning. Wearing this style of kimono at any other occasion would be a massive faux pas.
– Iromuji Style Tip: Chirimen or rinzu obiage are good for more casual ensembles, while shibori is best for formal looks. An uncrested iromuji is best worn with a hanhaba or nagoya obi without silver/gold accents, while crested iromuji are best paired with nagoya or fukuro obi with silver/gold accents.
付け下げ | Tsukesage:
Origin: Edo period (1603-1868) | Formality: Semi-Formal |
Obi: Nagoya/Fukuro | Musubi: Varied
Tsukesage are known as a semi-formal style of kimono. The intricate motifs and beautiful colors make it suitable for events such as weddings, celebrations, and theater outings. This style emerged after the usually small patterns of komon kimono began to become larger and more beautiful. Modern tsukesage share many similarities with hōmongi in terms of style, but a tsukesage will never have any patterns crossing over the seams of the kimono, with the sole exception of the okumi (front) panel. This lack of Eba-moyo (seamless pattern), coupled with the fact that tsukesage do not get kamon, make this a less formal kimono style. That said, in some cases the beauty and skill of the kimono's artisry can allow for exceptions, in which case they can be as formal as Hōmongi. Because of this fluctuating formality, there are many hybrids betweeen Tsukesage-Komon and Tsukesage-Hōmongi.
訪問着 | Hōmongi:
Origin: Taisho period (1912-1926) | Formality: Semi-Formal |
Obi: Fukuro | Musubi: Varied
Hōmongi, translating to "visiting wear," are characterized by their vibrant colours and elaborate designs that flow seamlessly over the seams (eba-moyo). Worn by both married and unmarried women, these kimono became the style of choice during the Taisho period (1912-1926) for semi-formal visits to one's neighbours, but modern use has evolved to make this an incredibly versatile style for various semi-formal occasions.
Hōmongi remain a popular choice for formal occasions like wedding guest attire, reception wear, and other ceremonial outfits. Its intricate patterns often symbolize motifs of nature, seasons, or celebratory themes that flow seamlessly along the hem, sleeves, chest, and shoulders of the kimono. This, coupled with their often vibrant colours, makes them one of the most eye-catching styles for mature/married women to wear, although it is just as popular a style with younger, unmarried women.
振り袖 | Furisode:
Origin: Sengoku period (1467-1615) | Formality: Formal |
Obi: Fukuro/Maru | Musubi: Kawari
Furisode, characterized by their long sleeves, are primarily worn by unmarried women for coming-of-age ceremonies and formal events, and the sleeve length determines the formality level. It is the most formal kimono style for a young lady to wear in Japan, and the large, sweeping pictorial art is some of the more opulent in kimono designs. A furisode's vibrant colors and lavish designs symbolize youth, vitality, and celebration, and their intricate designs often celebrated the beauty of the world around them through skilled motifs.
Furisode originated in the Sengoku period (1467-1615) as a gender-neutral style for school-age children. The long sleeves of the kimono were thought to better circulate air and so keep their young wearers cool. They were typically gifted to children at around 13 years of age, and boys would wear this style up until they turned 18. However, the influence of Western ideals in the Meiji period (1868-1912) lead to it becoming an exclusively feminine garb. The name 'furisode' literally means 'swinging sleeves', and the sleeve lengths range between 85-114 cm in three distinct styles of varying formality:
Ofurisode | Sleeve length: 114cm
This is the most formal and most widely seen of the furisode types in modern times. It has one of the longest sleeve lengths of any kimono, as well as padding to add weight and durability.
Chu-furisode | Sleeve length: 100cm
This medium sleeved furisode is popular with young women, because – with a lack of padding – it is lighter and cooler than the Ofurisode.
Ko-furisode | Sleeve length: 85cm
This furisode type has the shortest sleeve length of the three styles, and can be worn with hakama (formal wide-legged pants). This is no longer a common style, as it calls back – particularly with the hakama and boots – to Meiji period Japanese school uniforms.
留袖 | Tomesode:
Origin: Edo period (1603-1868) | Formality: Formal |
Obi: Fukuro/Maru | Musubi: Nijyu-daiko
Tomesode, traditionally worn exclusively by married women, are the most formal style of Japanese dresswear for more mature women, and would be equivalent to Western evening dresses. Originating in the Edo period (1603-1868), historically they often started their lives as Furisode kimono, the highest formality of kimono for young/unmarried women. Upon marrying, the women would cut and sew closed the long sleeves of their furisode, leaving them with more manageable, shorter kimono sleeves. This explains the meaning of tomesode: lit. 'fastened sleeves'.
They feature intricate eba-moyo designs on the lower portion of the garment, while the upper sections remain plain and without pattern. This was inspired by the 'Edozuma' style favoured by Geisha of the time. Both the hakkake (inside cloth lining of the cuff/hem) and the suso-mawashi (lining on the bottom of the kimono) – known collectively as the 'mukujitate' – also form a part of this continuous pattern. Over time, this became its own distinctive style, now known as tomesode, of which there are two types:
The most formal kind of Tomesode has a black base colour and ordinarily 5 kamon – a style known as Kuro-tomesode, which was adopted in the Meiji period (1869-1912). It is often favoured for mother-of-the-bride styling.
Iro-tomesode (lit. 'coloured fastened sleeve'), on the other hand, can have any base colour besides black and can have either 5, 3, or 1 kamon, offering a greater flexibility of formality.
The Tomesode works best with fukuro obi showcasing gold or silver accents, and the Nijyu-daiko obi musubi (knot) is always an elegant choice for this look.
白無垢 | Shiromuku:
Shiromuku, translating to "white without dirt," is a luxurious wedding kimono symbolizing purity, innocence, and new beginnings. Its pristine white-on-white silk fabric and detailing represents the bride's transition into married life, and is worn by brides of traditional Japanese Shinto weddings.
Historically used primarily in the weddings of the Samurai class, Shiromuku have remained a timeless choice from the Heian period through to modern times for Japanese brides, and are often considered the most prestigious type of traditional wedding wear.
打ち掛け | Uchikake:
Origin: Muromachi period (1336-1868) | Formality: Formal |
Obi: Fukuro/Maru | Musubi: Kawari
Uchikake is a highly formal outer garment worn over the kimono as either bridal wear or for traditional stage performances. This style is renowned for its opulent embroidery, lavish decorations – like surihaku (gold/silver foil) and shibori (tie-dye techniques) – as well as for its padded, trailing hem.
With its name literally meaning 'to drape upon', Uchikake are usually made one size larger than their wearer's inner kimono, as it is not only worn over the kakeshita (the wedding kimono meant to be worn underneath the uchikake), kosode, and the obi, but it is expected to trail along the floor gracefully. That is why it has extra padding in the hem made from wadding, for added durability and to prevent wear.
Originating from the Muromachi period, Uchikake served as a symbol of wealth and status, adorning brides with regal elegance during wedding ceremonies and processions. They often featured red or white to symbolize a wife's rebirth as a new member of the husband's family.
Iro-uchikake is another style of uchikake which embraces vibrant colour. This style was favoured as the formal attire of choice by the wives of samurai during the Muromachi period, primarily during the autumn season. By the Edo period, the style had gradually been adopted by wealthy merchants and aristocrats too. Although all colours are equally celebrated in this style, red, black, white, and gold are especially popular choices.
Conclusion:
While there is a whole world of female kimono styles, we have covered some of the most commonly cited styles in this article. Each style bears witness to centuries of craftsmanship, artistic expression, and societal evolution. Whether it's the understated charm of komon or the majestic allure of uchikake, every kimono style weaves a story of beauty, grace, and timeless elegance, leaving an indelible mark on Japanese culture and beyond. Explore these styles, and embark on a journey through the rich heritage of the kimono.
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