If you're fascinated by the beauty of kimono and are eager to explore the art of wearing one, you've come to the right place. Wearing a kimono involves more than just slipping into a garment; it requires the art of kitsuke, the traditional Japanese method of dressing in a kimono. At Arashi House, we believe in celebrating this artistry and making it accessible to everyone. In this guide, we'll explore the essential kitsuke accessories you need to master the art of wearing a kimono effortlessly. We have also included a cheat-sheet of what you may need for your kitsuke at the end of this article.
What You Need to Wear Japanese Kimono
Tabi: The Traditional Socks
Tabi are traditional split-toe socks worn with kimono. Crafted predominantly from cotton, polyester, silk, or hemp, tabi socks come with a range of fastening options. Some designs incorporate metal hooks at the heel of the foot, while more modern iterations feature elastic bands for more convenience. They can also come in a variety of colours and patterns, although more formal kimono styles traditionally maintain a constant hue of pristine white.
Tabi not only add an extra layer of comfort – with their rubberised soles keeping your feet from slipping off of the oft lacquered shoes – but also keep feet warm during the winter months. These are usually the first item you put on when dressing for kimono, as it can be tricky to slip them on after donning your kimono without messing up your ensemble.
Hadajuban: The Underwear
The hadajuban, also known as the kimono undergarment, is worn beneath the kimono to provide a smooth and comfortable base layer. Made from lightweight fabric like cotton, its main purpose is to protect the kimono from body oils and sweat while adding a layer of modesty. This is the layer that one washes regularly, and it helps to keep the kimono pristine. The sleeves usually sit flush underneath the kimono sleeves, and remains invisible beneath the other layers. Hadajuban come in many styles, usually with tube-shaped sleeves and without collar. They can come in the form of a traditional, single, robe-like design, or can be a two-piece combo of hanjuban (for the upper body) and susoyoke (for the lower body), collectively called juban. Many people have their own preference between the options, but the two-piece juban is a popular modern choice as it allows for easier height/size adjustments and greater comfort.
In more contemporary kimono styling, hadajuban are not always worn underneath kimono and may even be substituted for other styles, like shirts and leggings. This is particularly true in warmer climates, were one could just wear a Nagajuban over one's bra and shorts. (Just make sure the nagajuban is not silk in this instance, as it would be directly against the skin and difficult to clean!) In colder climates, some kimono wearers even opt to use a slim-fit hoodie for a more modern, edgy look.
Nagajuban: The Kimono Under-Layer What You Need to Wear Japanese Kimono
The nagajuban, sometimes simply called juban, is a lightweight undergarment worn beneath the kimono and over the hadajuban. Crafted from breathable fabrics like silk or cotton, it provides a smooth base that will provide an additional layer between any sweat or body oils and your kimono, and helps achieve a columnar figure. It is the main layer that will peek out from underneath the kimono, usually just at the collar, occasional glimpses of it at the sleeves, and at the bottom hemline when walking. Anything more obvious would be considered indecent though.
These undergarments are often beautiful in their own right, but they are still underwear. To wear it out would be a definite faux pas in traditional kitsuke, so be careful not to confuse it with a kimono as so many anime enthusiasts have done at comic conventions and the like.
There are a few ways to differentiate the kimono and the juban. Nagajuban are generally shorter in length than kimono because they do not need to be folded with an ohashyori. They frequently feature a white or contrasting collar, to which a decorative *han-eri can be added, and they tend to be slimmer than kimono, lacking the diagonal okumi panel that connects the front and collar sections.
A well fitting nagajuban should drop from the shoulders to rest just above the ankles (in line with where the kimono ends), and should wrap comfortably around the body. If you have a larger bust or narrow hips some recommend getting the two-piece juban, as you can order the hanjuban and the susoyoke in different sizes.
*See 'Eri-Shin''.
Hosei: The Padding
In Japan there is a traditional appreciation for community and uniformity. Because of this, it became desirable for people to have a uniform columnar shape so as to remove the body from the equation and highlight the beauty of one's garb. To achieve this uniform shape, people introduced hosei, or padding.
Consisting of towels or small pads used to help smooth out the body line, the hosei is tucked into any areas that do not support the desired tubular shape that is ideal for kimono. Although hosei styling is highly personalised, some common application areas include in the waist, under the bust, and in the small of the back. Although invaluable for smoothing out any unwanted lumps and bumps, extra padding is not always a popular choice in warmer climates.
Eri-shin: The Collar Stiffener
Eri-shin are collar stiffeners placed inside the collar of the hadajuban to maintain its shape and structure. Made from plastic or fabric, they prevent the collar from collapsing or wrinkling during wear, ensuring a crisp and polished appearance which gives female kimono their distinctive collar shape. Men do not traditionally use this item, and it is a relatively easy item to make at home.
Style Note: The collars of the juban are often decorated with an item known as a han-eri, which are strips of fabric sewn (or taped!) over the collar of the juban. The han-eri can be subtle or highly decorative, featuring bright colours, embroidery, and other accents.
Koshihimo: The Waist Ties
Koshihimo, or waist ties, are long, thin strips of fabric used to secure and hold the nagajuban, hadajuban, and the kimono in place and to keep them from opening. They are simply wrapped around the body and tied firmly at the waist, ensuring a snug and comfortable fit. One usually uses one koshihimo to hold the nagajuban in place, and two to hold the kimono in place - one tied around the waist and another around the chest. These come in many colours and fabrics, with cotton and silk being some of the most popular.
Datejime: The Smoothing Belt
A datejime is a narrow belt-like accessory that is worn underneath the obi to provide additional support and to help create a smooth, streamlined silhouette over the koshihimo ties. The ends of the datejime are usually wrapped around each other and then tucked into the top or bottom of itself when tying. Some believe it also helps to prevent the obi from slipping down throughout the day, ensuring that your kimono stays securely in place. There are two lines of thought about datejime in the kimono kitsuke schools, where some believe it to be an invaluable tool when dressing, while others believe it to be a somewhat uncomfortable and unnecessary addition.
Obi-Ita: The Obi Board
The obi-ita is a stiff board or pad that is placed underneath, or nestled within, the obi (sash) to provide structure and support. This is usually in the form of either a covered plastic board (maeita) or a covered plastic board with elastic ties, and is worn over the koshihimo/datejime around the waist or tucked into the folds of the obi, depending on the style.
This is an invaluable tool, and it helps to maintain the shape of the obi and prevents it from wrinkling, puckering, or sagging into the natural curve of the waist. It would be very difficult to get one's obi to look neat and tidy without this particular kitsuke tool, particularly when tying the obijime. Some obi-ita even have pockets which are quite useful for safely carrying money or bank cards with you without anyone noticing.
Obi-Makura: The Obi Pillow
For achieving that perfectly sculpted obi knot, the obi-makura (or obi pillow) is a great addition to your kitsuke toolbox. This cushioned accessory, often referred to as a kimono bustle, is used to support the bows or ties at the back of the obi and keep them lifted. They are placed underneath the obi when styling certain obi musubi (knots), such as the classic nijyudaiko musubi. The obi-makura provides a comfortable base for tying intricate knots, ensuring they stay secure and symmetrical. The nagoya obi, fukuro obi, and maru obi require a makura to be worn in most styles, but they are not necessary for more casual variants.
Obiage: The Silk Sash
Once your kimono ensemble is secure, it's time to dress it up. An obiage is a decorative silk scarf that is tucked over the obi-makura (which sits inside the obi knot) and is tied in front of you. This sticks out from behind the obi, and can be tied in many ways, which often help to keep the obi knot in place. Although younger kimono wearers occasionally forgo this accessory, obiage not only add a layer of elegance to your kimono by hiding the obi-makura ties, but it also helps to create a fun pop of colour or contrast in your outfit.
Obijime: The Decorative Cord
The obijime is a silk cord that is wrapped around the obi, through the musubi, to secure it in place and create a polished look. Available in a wide range of vibrant colours, the obijime adds style to your ensemble and helps to accentuate the beauty of your obi. Many people often coordinate the colour of the Obijime and the Obiage for a harmonious and complementary look, and the addition of an obidome (a brooch worn on the obijime) often finishes off the look.
Honorary Mention 1: The Korin Belt
The Korin belt is an elastic strap with clips at either end. It can be used instead of the koshihimo when tying kimono by clipping it to the inner collar first and then wrapping it around the back and clipping it to the outer collar. It can also be used to secure the obi-ita if that doesn't have attached elastic straps. Many modern kitsuke masters swear by this little gadget, but some others prefer more traditional ties.
Honorary Mention 2: Kimono Clips
Kimono clips are invaluable tools used to assist in the dressing process, particularly when styling the layers of fabric and securing them in place. These clips come in various sizes and designs, featuring a spring-loaded mechanism with rubber 'teeth' that allows for easy attachment and removal without damaging the delicate fabric of the kimono.
Whether you're adjusting the folds of the obi or securing the layers of the collar, kimono clips provide precise control and stability, ensuring a flawless finish to your ensemble. Incorporating kimono clips into your dressing routine simplifies the process and allows you to achieve professional-looking results with ease. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced kimono enthusiast, these indispensable tools streamline the dressing process and elevate your kitsuke experience to new heights.
In conclusion, mastering the art of kimono kitsuke is as much about understanding the role of accessories as it is about the kimono itself. Each accessory plays a crucial role in achieving the perfect fit, form, and elegance. Whether you're preparing for a special occasion or simply indulging in the beauty of kimono fashion, investing in quality accessories is a must. That doesn't mean you need to buy all of them though! Do your research and try to find the best kitsuke kit for your personal needs. If you prefer less formal styles, you'll probably need far fewer accessories than for formal looks.
The Kitsuke Cheat-Sheet:
What women need for casual kimono:
Hadajuban (Optional if wearing nagajuban)
Nagajuban (not necessary for yukata)
Koshihimo waist ties x 3
Obi-Ita (not necessary for yukata)
Kimono/Yukata
Hanhaba/Tsuke Obi
Setta/Geta shoes
What women need for formal kimono:
Tabi socks
Hadajuban (Optional)
Nagajuban
Hosei (Optional)
Erishin
Koshihimo x 3+
Datejime (Optional)
Obi-Ita
Maru/Fukuro/Nagoya Obi
Obi-Makura
Obi-Age
Obijime
Obidome (Optional)
Zōri shoes
What men need for casual kimono:
Nagajuban (not necessary for yukata)
Koshihimo waist ties x 2
Kimono/Yukata
Kaku/Heko Obi
Setta/Geta shoes
What men need for formal kimono:
Tabi socks
Nagajuban undergarment
Koshihimo waist ties x 2
Kimono
Kaku Obi
Haori (jacket worn over the kimono - Optional)
Haori-himo (tie to keep the Haori fastened - Optional)
Hakama (wide-legged pants worn over the kimono - Optional)
Zōri shoes
At Arashi House, we offer a curated selection of authentic kimono accessories to complement your ensemble. From exquisite obi-ita to the indispensable koshihimo, we have everything you need to elevate your kimono experience. Explore our collection today and embark on a journey of timeless elegance and style. Can't find what you're looking for? Contact us and we'll be happy to source it for you.
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